Why Lille Is France’s Most Underrated City
I can’t get enough of France. The bread, the cheese, the macarons… what’s not to love?
There’s no part of this country I don’t want to visit again and again, but I confess, I do have a couple of favourite cities. Up until recently, Nice was my French MVP, but since my last visit to Europe, Lille in France’s north has tied for the title.
I jumped on a train from London to lovely little Lille, which isn’t all that little (it’s. actually France’s fourth-biggest city), but has quaint-little-village vibe about it that sparked a whole lot of joy as I wandered its sunny cobblestone streets.
I’d never thought about going to Lille before. It wasn’t on my ‘bucket list’ or a lifelong dream; actually, I hadn’t even heard of it (awkward), and I basically ended up choosing that particular town because
a) the return train ticket there was cheaper than return flights to Nice (I had to get back to London for my flight home); and
b) it was only an easy hour and a half away and I didn’t feel like travelling too far for just a handful of days.
So, here’s a quick guide to a weekend in Lille: France’s most underrated city.
WHEN YOU WANT GOOD COFFEE
You’ve got to go to Tampa Espresso (they even do flat whites, which, if you didn’t know, is a very Australian thing and not always easy to find overseas.
I also indulged in an epic cheese toastie there, because (as I mentioned) I’m all about French cheese and bread, and this particular sandwich featured three types of cheese on rustic French bread, with a touch of mustard and a little Spanish onion. It. Was. A. Winner.
Le Pain Quotidien is also nice spot for a traditional French breakfast and a perfectly brewed coffee. It is a global chain, but that doesn’t make it bad. Quite the opposite.
(And can a bowl of coffee and a croissant ever really be wrong?)
2. WHEN IT’S TIME FOR SOME LOCAL KNOWLEDGE
I do a lot of walking when I holiday. (Mostly because I think you see so much more when you wander, but also partly because I have been known to have anxiety attacks on public transport…). And while I understand that a walking tour might not sound like everyone’s idea of a good time, if you’re at peace with your nerdy desire to know more about the place you’re in, they can be interesting, informative and even (gasp) fun!
And are pretty much guaranteed to make you feel cultured and clever and a teeny bit superior for having made the effort.
The Lille Free Tour happened to kick off from where I was staying (how handy!) and the local guide, Nicolas, was great. It was clear straight away he loves Lille.
Nicolas took us to some local landmarks, told us all about the Flemish history of the city and the Spanish influences you can still see hanging around in the bright coloured buildings (read: the burnt oranges and yellows on facades). I’m no architecture expert, but the buildings in Lille are especially pretty, and there are a lot more vibrant hues flashing around this city than you’ll find further south).
We covered a lot of ground in two hours, and I definitely recommend looking up Nicolas for a crash course on the beautiful city when you visit.
3. AND, OF COURSE, THE LOCAL TREATS…
If we’re talking about what to do in Lille – or, more specifically, what to eat in Lille – you’re going to need this little list…
(By the way, expect to pack on a few kilos in Lille – and try not to care. Just think of all that walking you’ve been doing! You need to fuel up for exploring, after all…)
AUX MERVEILLEUX
These sweet, fluffy piles of deliciousness are barely describable and, consider yourself warned: it’s hard to stop at just one. Think: perfectly crafted meringue discs, sandwiched together with whipped cream, coated in a light buttercream and rolled in chocolate shavings, and you’ll have some sense of what merveilleux are all about.
They come in a lot of flavours and are a must-try when you’re in town.
Les Gaufres
‘La gaufre’ is just French for waffle, but what I’m talking about here is a sweet treat that’s very specific to the area: a semi-soft (almost slightly chewy) wafer-thin waffle-like pastry filled with buttercream. (You might’ve noticed, Lille is kind of big on buttercream.)
These are sold in loads of patisseries, but the place to get the best version is Meert Patisserie. (Hot tip: you can also get a really good coffee out the back in the bougie-but-cosy Meert Salon de Thé.)
Waffles.
Now, I know you can get waffles pretty much anywhere. But there’s something special about eating Nutella-drenched dough while strolling along cobblestone streets in Northern France, so close to the border. of Belgium, where waffles are king.
(Okay, I admit: eating a Nutella waffle anywhere calls to me.)
I went to Waffle Factory on Rue Neuve and I wasn’t disappointed. I was, however, full after eating everything else Lille had on offer, so I went with a very basic option of nothing but Nutella – but you can top these waffles with almost anything, from fruit to cream, ice cream or sprinkles, chocolates, marshmallows… You get the idea.
Have you been to Lille? What was your favourite experience? Let me know in the comments below! ❤️